Foundation garment for women



June 27, 1939.

J. LEONARD FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 8, 1959 June 27, 1939. 1 LEQNARD 2,164,136

FOUNDATION GAHMENT FOR WOMEN Filed March 8, 1939 2 Sheets-Shet 2 INVENTOR JasephLeo/mrd ATTORN EY5 which in its structure and Patented June 27, 1939 UNITED STATES FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Joseph Leonard, Allentown, Pa... assignor to Charis Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application March 8, 1939, Serial No. 260,530

6 Claims.

This invention relates to foundation garments. The term foundation garment is generally applied in corsetiery to designate those undergarments worn by women for supporting, reducing, or moulding the figure into the form requisite for the wearing of predesigned outer clothing. Foundation garments include brassires, bandeaux, corsets, combination corset brassires, girdles, etc. This invention has to do more particularly with corsets, corset-brassieres and girdles and for convenience and brevity is illustrated herein as applied to a corset-brass-ire, but it should be distinctly understood that such illustration is not intended to be limitative.

This invention recognizes certain essentials in properly constructed foundation garments, is in accord therewith and has as its various objects improvements on existing foundation garments in attaining those essentials, which may be briefly set forth as follows:

Health and comfort of the wearer.--This invention aims to improve the health, and to afford comfort to the wearer by providing an adjustable structure which avoids misplacement of the viscera and/or tends to restore the viscera, when fallen, to proper position Furthermore, the structure is such as to avoid flesh adjustment which would cause discomfort.

Proper-floating and adjustment of garment to accord with bony structure of frame-This invention aims to provide a foundation garment adjustability accords with the bony structure of the 'frame. to maintain the lumbar curve at the back, and the abdominal supporting section of the garment in front extends upwardly from the pubic bone in order so far as is possible to embrace the abdominal organs in their entirety. It is apparent that this feature of the foundation garment is a contributory factor to the health and comfort of the wearer.

Smooth outward lines and fashionable contour of the g'arment.-'I'his invention aims to attain a garment which has a smooth outer surface "particularly as to all of those parts of the garment which are in close contact with the outer clothing of the wearer so as to permit of the wearing, for example, of a tight fitting gown or dress, which shall lie perfectly smooth and will not disclose any structural or adjustment feature of the foundation garment, such, for example, as boning, lacing, or other fastening devices. The invention in this connection also aims at such redistribution of the fleshy parts of the figure as H36 g-W the figure so far as possible the contour It tends demanded by current fashion. This applies not only to the body of the wearer above the hips, but includes the flesh of the lower abdomen, about the hips, the buttocks and the upper portions of the thighs.

Another consideration of importance is: Low production costs.-'I'his invention aims to make possible the manufacture of a garment characterized by the three essentials above set forth which shall have low production costs by providing numerous features of adjustability by which a single garment may be adjusted to fit a variety of figures. This feature of the invention does not at all exclude its application to costly custom-made garments, but it makes possible quantity production to meet the present demands of the trade Other objects of the invention will be apparent as this description proceeds.

More particularly my invention is an improvement over such garments as, for example, are illustrated in my United States Letters Patent Nos 1,488,209, 1,637,313, 1,655,377, and 1,978,092.

Reference being had to these examples in each instance it is observed that the garment is split at the sides below the waistline, the split extending all the way to the bottom of the garment. The split sides are each provided with eyelets, one lacing at least on each side passing through the eyelets on the sides of an inner belt. The garments of these patents in each case possess the advantages set forth in the said patents, among which may be emphasized the advantage of both lateral and vertical adjustability of the inner belt and the advantage of tightening the front of the garment with the same tension and at the same time that the abdominal belt is tightened. This latter advantage contributes greatly to the avoidance of wrinkles either in the. front of the garment or in the abdominal belt, or both. It contributes to the health and comfort of the wearer and to a good appearance of the front of a dress or gown worn over the foundation garment. In tight fitting gowns or dresses, however, the exposed lacing at the sides of the tundation garment is likely to make ridges on an outer garment and is objectionable for that reason. Furthermore, these foundation garments are costly and more or less bulky. With the garment illustrated in Patent No. 1,655,377 the apron covering the front of the thigh controlling portion, for many types of outer clothing has been found objectionable.

' The problem is to retain the advantages of the and that the invention is not limited to the eming opened for putting on and taking oil? the garments of these patents and to eliminate the disadvantages thereof.

Many prior attempts have been made to eliminate the split sides of these illustrative examples, all with indifferent success. Among these attempts has been the employment in various parts of the garment of heavy elastic material such as is used for gores and inserts, but such elastic has never been of the right weight or texture and has never been properly positioned. These devices interfere with and tend to limit the free functioning of the adjustable features. Furthermore, in many instances where such elastic material has been employed in parts covering otherwise exposed lacing, it has been accompanied by vertical openings having detachable fastening devices of various sorts in addition to the regular opening for putting on and taking off the foundation garment; all of which is most objectionable.

In the invention hereof I have solved these various problems and have produced a foundation garment which not only obviates the ob" jections herein above set forth, but possesses the advantagesof the garments of my said United States Letters Patent and many advantages in addition thereto. In such garment I prefer to employ the inner belt of my United States Letters Patent No. 1,978,092 and have so illustrated herein, but it must be understood that this is optional ployment of any particular structure of inner belt.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, which drawings should be understood as purely illustrative and not limitative:

Figure 1 is a three quarter front elevation of the garment in standing position ofthe wearer as worn by the wearer, except that the covering of the lacing in front of the hip and thigh controlling portion of the-garment, is turned back at one side to disclose the lacing;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1 taken from the opposite side thereof, with the garment partly opened at its side opening, illustrating the inner belt in proper position on the wearers figure; and

Fig. 3 is an elevation of the inside of the garment with the front of the garment turned back to show the inner belt, the inner belt begarment.

The corset-brassiere chosen to illustrate this invention comprises a body portion iii which completely encircles the body. The back of the garment H, is shown at the top as quite high on the body and as forming a continuance support for the back from a line about midway of the dorsal region of the spinal column to the lower end thereof. It extends downwardly over the hips and buttocks to cover the upper region of the thighs, and is illustrated as being continuous from top to bottom. The high back character of the garment illustrated is not essential to the invention which is adapted as well to what is commonly called a low back garment. It is preferable, however, that the back extend upwardly over the lumbar vertebrae where it is shaped to conform with the normal lumbar curve. Furthermore, the invention is well adapted for garments divided laterally at the back to conform with and have the advantages of the structure of my United States Letters Patent No. 2,131,707. 7

As illustrated, the back contains suitable boning i2 and is preferably provided at the top with a centrally placed insert 13 of heavy elastic material and at the bottom toward the sides with gores Hi, Id of similar elastic material.

The front of the garment 2| in the upper brassiere portion is formed with suitable breast pockets 22, 22, from which it extends downwardly over the abdomen, the hips and the upper part of the thighs, being preferably arched upwardly at the bottom as at 23 for the convenience and comfort of the wearer. The garment is optionally illustrated as a side opening garment provided with hooks 24 on one side of the opening and eyes 25 on the opposite side of the opening, in conventional manner.

The lower portion of the body of the garment in front covering the hips and upper part of the thighs is divided vertically in the center as at 2?. This vertical line of division extends from the bottom edge of the garment upwardly to a point substantially midway between the umbilicus and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position. on each side of the division line 21 and a lacer 28 is threaded through the eyelets for adjusting the tightness of the hip and thigh controlling portion of the garment. It is desirable that the eyelets 28 be covered on the outside and to that end a convenient structure comprises two inside strips 36, 39 in which the eyelets are placed, one attached to each side of the division line in such manner that the fabric of the corset body completely covers the strips 39 but is discon-,

nected therefrom immediately above the rows of;

eyelets so that the eyelets are readily accessible. This is illustrated at 3| in Fig. 1.

Gores 32, 32 of heavy elastic material are inserted in the hip and thigh controlling portion,,

one on each side thereof extending from the bottom of the garment upwardly a suitable distance.

The front of the garment is conveniently made with five vertical panels, 35, 36 at the side thereof, 38 at the center in the hip and thigh controlling portion, 39 a center panel at the top extending into and forming a part of the brassiere portion ofthe garment, and 40 a cen-v ter panel intermediate the panels 38. and 39. The panels 36, 36 are each suitably connected with panels 42, 42, respectively, at the sides of the garment, being stitched thereto on the right side, and on the left side attached by the hooks 24 and eyes 25 as above set forth to form the side opening of the garment. .The side panels 42, 42 are in turn connected with the back of' the garment by seams commonly referred to as under-arm seams 43, 43. The panels 36, 36 are suitably connected with the center panels 38, 39 and M3 at the sides thereof, as by stitching.

It is the center panel 38 in the hip and thigh controlling portion of the garment which is vertically divided at 21 and the side edges of which are connected with a lacer 29 as more A row of eyelets 28 is placed It is very pliable.

the lower portions of the breasts.

In these respects it is quite distinct from the heavy elastic material employed in the insert l3 and gores l4 and 32. As an example of elastic material suitable for use for the center panel 40 may be mentioned an elastic fabric commonly known to the trade as Leno Mesh.

This panel 40 should be of suflicient width to permit of the maximum desirable limit of lateral extensibility of the inner belt and/or its attaching means, later to be described. This width obviously depends upon the elasticity ofl the material employed. With Leno Mesh, a width of approximately 3% inches has been found to give satisfaction. The panel 40 should be under slight tension when the inner belt and its attaching means are in their position of minimum lateral extent.

The center elastic panel 4i] at the bottom has its lower edge 46 overlapping the top of the hip and thigh controlling panel 38 and is disconnected from that panel. The overlap of the hip and thigh controlling panel 33 by the elastic panel 40 is only such as to assure a smooth unbroken surface over the upper part of the panel 38 and its division line 2i, it being the intended purpose that the lacer 29 shall be accessible from top to bottom on the outside of the garment. This accessibility at the top is provided for by limiting the said overlap and by having the lower edge 46 of the elastic panel 4|] disconnected from the hip and thigh controlling panel 38.

At the top the elastic panel 49 terminates in a line not substantially below the top of the adjustable attaching means of the inner belt to the garment as will later be more fully'set forth. In the corset-brassire illustrated it is to be noted that the top of the elastic panel lies below the brassiere portion of the garment.

The inner belt 50, heretofore referred to, as stated in the preamble hereto is prefarbly made in accordance with the inner belt of my United States Letters Patent No. 1,978,092, to which reference may be made for a complete description thereof. Briefly, the said inner belt comprises a unitary abdominal supporter 5i and a diaphragm reducer 52 connected together at their side edges in permanent position and having the portions intermediate thereof overlapping and disconnected from each other, the abdominal supporter M at the top underlying the diaphragm reducer 52 in such manner that they may slide back and forth on each other to accommodate the various positions of the figure. The ab dominal supporter is divided vertically toward one side'thereofand is there provided with detachablefastening means The diaphragm reducer is divided vertically toward the opposite side thereof and is there provided with detachable fastening means These provisions enable the inner belt to be opened and closed without inter fering with its attachment to the body of the garment.

The abdominal belt 5! at the bottom extends downwardly in a curve and may be cupped slightly so as to fit properly the groin and lower abdomen of the wearer, as is shown more particularly in Fig. 2. The diaphragm reducer 52 extends downwardly from its upper central point in a slight slope to each side and thus avoids contact with The position of the inner belt as a whole on the figure is well illustrated in Fig. 1 of said United States Letters Patent No. 1,978,092.

i The inner belt 50 is provided at each side with a-row ofeyelets 58 for adjustable attachment to the inside of the garment by the parts and in the manner now to be described.

Vertical inserts BI], 60, one on each side, are suitably attached to the inside of the garment, herein illustrated as being sewed into the underarm seams 43, 43. The inserts terminate above at approximately the waistline of the garment and extend downwardly to approximately the line of the pubic bone in the standing position of the wearer. These inserts are narrow and at their outer edges are each provided with a row of eyelets 6|. These eyelets are preferably positioned the same distance apart as the eyelets 58 on the side edges of the inner belt with which they are connected by lacers 62, 62. The Vertical inserts 6G and the rows of eyelets therein are longer than the sides of the inner belt. Both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt are thus provided for in this structure. In making the vertical adjustment by relacing the inner belt to its inserts or by originally lacing the inner belt into its desired position, care should always be taken that the lower edge of the inner belt is kept in its proper position at the groin of the wearer as shown in Fig. 2. When in this position it underlies the top of the hip and thigh controlling panel 38, which it will be recalled underlies the lower edge it of the central elastic panel 4|].

The upper eyelets in the vertical inserts Bil which are to be utilized in the vertical adjustment of the inner belt, as shown by the dot and dash line 64 in Fig. 2, lie just below the upper margin of the elastic panel 40.

Suitable shoulder straps 66, and garters 68 are provided in manner Well known in the art.

It is believed that the operation of this in vention will be understood from the foregoing description thereof without any elaborate discussion.

The corset-brassiere, selected with proper bust measurement for the wearer, is put on with the hooks 24 and eyes 25 detached and open at the side, the inner belt being open, as illustrated in Fig. 3. The fastening means 53 and 54 of the inner belt are then connected. The inner belt is then properly adjusted both laterally and vertically so that its lower edge is at the groin and the abdominal organs, if lowered, are raised to their proper position, and the surplus abdominal flesh is raised and redistributed to give to the figure graceful lines to accord so far as possible with current fashion. The tightening of the inner belt in position simultaneously brings pressure from the back of the garment more particularly on the lumbar region of the spine and moves and/or retains the lumbar vertebrae in their proper position for the normal lumbar curve.

The garment is then fastened at the side opening throughout its length and lateral adjustment made of the lacer 29 to bring and/or retain the flesh about the hips, the buttocks, and the upper part of the thighs into the graceful lines demanded by current fashion so far as possible. After this adjustment is made the garment may be taken off and put on without disturbing the adjustment, by merely opening and closing the garment at the regular side opening.

The elastic panel 40 stretches to accommodate the adjustment above made without in any way interfering with the adjustment, and gives to the front of the garment over the entire region of. the abdomen and diaphragm a perfectly smooth surface and contour. The lower end 46 of the elastic panel by overlying the sliding connection between the upper end of the central panel 38 and the lower margin of the inner belt 50 assures a smooth surface and good contour at this place of joinder. Furthermore, as the top of the panel 38 lies below the normal high point of the abdomen any slight unevenness at the surface at this place would not be apparent with the ordinary tight fitting dress or gown.

The smooth outer surface, the evenness of line and the good contour of the corset-brassiere and the wearer are well illustrated in Fig. 1, hereof which is reproduced from a photograph.

Where the invention is applied to girdles or corsets, the upper central panel 39 will obviously be very much shortened or, in fact, omitted altogether.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent that the objects heretofore recited of this invention are attained thereby. The abdomen is supported in proper position, and the surplus flesh of the abdomen, the hips, buttocks, and thighs redistributed and the figure moulded into current fashionable lines. Adjustability of the inner belt and of the hip and thigh controlling portion of the garment are retained. A smooth, unbroken outer surface of the garment is provided having no unevenness where adjustment of the inner belt and of the hip and thigh controlling portion is made. The construction is much simpler and cheaper than that of my prior United States Letters Patent first above enumerated. And with all the health and comfort of the wearer are provided for.

The foregoing detailed description has been given for clearness of understanding and no undue limitation should be inferred therefrom, but the appended claims should be construed as broad as possible in view of the prior art.

I claim: 1. A foundation garment for women comprising a body portion which completely encircles the figure and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the um'bilicusand the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side of the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeletted edges for affording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; an inner belt underlying the said elastic panel; means for detachably connecting the inner belt to the inside of the garment, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vortically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel extending at the top to a line not substantially below the top of the said last named means to be utilized in said vertical adjustment of the inner belt.

2. A foundation garment for women comprising a body portion which completely encircles the figure and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in' front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the umbilicus and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side of the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeletted edges for affording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the. hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping and being disconnected from the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; an inner belt underlying the said elastic panel; means for detachably connecting the inner belt to the inside of the garment, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vertically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel extending at the top to a line not substantially below the top of the said last named means to be utilized in said vertical adjustment of the inner belt.

3. A foundation garment for women comprising a body portion which completely encircles the figure and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the umbilious and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side of the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeleted edges for affording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, Vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping and being disconnected from the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; vertical inserts attached to the inside of the garment body, one at each side thereof, extending from approximately the waistline of the garment downward to approximately the line of the pubic bone in the standing position of the wearer, and being provided with eyelets along their edges; an inner belt, the side edges of which are shorter than the said inserts and are provided with eyelets for cooperation with the eyelets in the inserts, lacers connecting the inner belt with the inserts by means of the said eyelets, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vertically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel extending at the top to a line not substantially below the upper eyelets of the said inserts to be utilized in said vertical adjustment of the inner belt.

4. A foundation garment for women comprising a body portion which completely encircles the figure and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the umbilicus and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side of the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeletted edges for affording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping and being disconnected from the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; vertical inserts attached to the inside of the garment body, one at each side thereof, extending from approximately the waistline of the garment down to approximately the line of the pubic bone in the standing position of the wearer, and being provided with eyelets along their edges; an inner belt comprising a unitary abdominal supporter and diaphragm reducer having their ends connected together in permanent position and the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and disconnected from each other, the side edges of which are shorter than the said inserts and are provided with eyelets for cooperation with the eyelets in the inserts, lacers connecting the inner belt with the inserts by means of the said eyelets, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vertically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel extending at the top to a line not substantially below the upper eyelets of the said inserts to be utilized in said vertical ad- J'ustment of the inner belt.

5. A foundation garment for women comprising a corset-b-rassire having a body portion which completely encircles the figure and embraces the breasts and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the umbilicus and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side oi. the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeletted edges for affording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping and being disconnected from the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; an inner belt underlying the said elastic panel; means for detachably connecting the inner belt to the inside of the garment, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vertically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel at the top thereof terminating below the brassiere portion of the garment but extending upwardly to a line not substantially below the top of the said last named means to be utilized in said vertical adjustment of the inner belt,

6. A foundation garment for women comprising a corset-brassiere having a body portion which completely encircles the figure and embraces the breasts and extends down below the hips along the upper part of the thighs of the wearer; the lower portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs being divided vertically in the center in front from the bottom edge of the garment up to a point substantially midway between the umbilicus and the pubic bone of the wearer in standing position, and being provided with a row of eyelets along the edges on each side of the division line, a lacer connecting the said eyeletted edges for afiording lateral adjustment of the body of the garment about the hips and thighs; the upper portion of the body of the garment in front above the said eyeletted edges being formed with a centrally positioned, vertical, thin elastic panel, the lower edge of the elastic panel overlapping and being disconnected from the said eyeletted edges at the top thereof; vertical inserts attached to the inside of the garment body, one at each side thereof, extending from approximately the waistline of the garment downward to approximately the line of the pubic bone in the standing position of the wearer, and being provided with eyelets along their edges; an inner belt comprising a unitary abdominal supporter and diaphragm reducer having their ends connected together in permanent position and the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and disconnected from each other, the

' side edges of which are shorter than the said inserts and are provided with eyelets for cooperation with the eyelets in the inserts, lacers connecting the inner belt with the inserts by means of the said eyelets, the construction and arrangement being such as to provide for both vertical and lateral adjustment of the inner belt with the lower edge of the inner belt in front underlying the top of the said vertically divided portion of the body of the garment covering the hips and thighs; the said elastic panel at the top thereof terminating below the brassire portion of the garment but extending upwardly to a line not substantially below the upper eyelets of the said inserts to be utilized in said vertical adjustment of the inner belt.

JOSEPH LEONARD. 

